Is the holidays a good time to visit Paris? Oui! Here’s a few things you should know:
Shopping
- It’s the peak shopping season and the Grands Magasins will be packed.
- Yet, do not miss the decorated windows. They are true artistic creations!
- Contrary to London, sales do not start on December 26.Sales (« Les Soldes ») usually start in January and obey a strict government schedule in order to protect consumers. Anyone telling you about sales outside of the official period is lying to you!
- You might still find discounts after December 25, those will be labeled « promotions. »
- Most shops and department stores will be closed on December 25and January 1.However, most of them will be open a bit later than usual on Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Also, note that, while lots of stores are closed on Sundays in France, a lot of them will exceptionally open on the couple Sundays leading to Christmas.
Dining and cooking
- Finding a dining venue for Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve is a tricky affair. There are plenty to chose from. Here are a few dos and don’ts.
- Avoid Seine River cruises. Their food selection is notoriously bad any time of the year. They will be overpriced on that special night and you’ll be disappointed.
- Most « grands restaurants » (aka Michelin star) will have a Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve menu. You should expect to pay €200 to €500 per person. Not necessarily much more expensive than usual. But you should expect a single prix fixe that particular night. Make sure to be interested by what’s on the menu; substitutions will be limited!
- Less ambitious venues will not hesitate to double or triple what they charge on any other given night. Once again, you might feel like you’re being ripped off. So our recommendation: go big or go home!
- So how about making your own special dinner? A traditional French holiday dinner will include foie gras, a choice between oysters, smoked salmon, or lobster, turkey or capon, cheese course, and bûche de Noël for dessert. While cooking a turkey in an Airbnb might sound a bit crazy (but why not, after all!), most of these dishes can be purchased ready to eat.
- Foie gras can be found at Hédiard, Fauchon, La Grande Épicerie, or la Maison Godard. Make sure to get « foie gras entier » « cuit » or « mi-cuit » and stay away from « terrine » or « reconstituté ». Make sure you see an « origine France » label (you don’t want a knock off from somewhere else). Unwrap, cut 1cm slices and serve as a starter with toasted fresh baguette. Some people give in to fig or onions preserve; we think it should be enjoyed plain. Pairs divinely with vintage Champagne.
- Find a local fishmonger (« poissonnier ») and get a « plateau de fruits de mer ». This seafood assortment will traditionally include oysters, shrimps, crayfish, and other delicacies. It usually can be customized (more of this, less of that) on demand. We strongly suggest you order it a day or two in advance. Last minute orders might not be served!
- Some « rotisserie » or « traiteur » will offer ready to carve turkey, capon, or chicken. Check locally; consider ordering in avance.
- Visit your local « fromager », tell them the size of your party, inform them of your taste in cheese, and voilà !
- La bûche de Noël is sponge cake filled with custard cream and iced with butter cream; variations are infinite. Now, that’s a tricky one. They will be displayed everywhere from local bakeries to supermarkets to frozen food stores. You’ll see them advertised in the subway! Every year, food critics try to determine which pastry chef came up with the best creation. Check Yann Couvreur’s store. Other options on this page. Again, touch base a day or two in advance!
Christmas Day and New Year’s Day brunch
- This is the latest Parisian trend: forget about boring, endless Christmas Day lunch. Some great restaurants have given up on table service and put together fantastic buffets. Check Le First Boudoir, probably the best value out there. Other 5* hotels have similar concepts. Some pair buffet style with table service for your main.
A show on Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve
- The Opera National de Paris and its two locations always have great shows on holiday evening and days. This is a great way to celebrate. Make sure to dress up!
- Other venues like Theatre des Champs-Elysees, offer concerts.
Joyeuses fêtes!
